If you are in Seoul and find yourself in the mood for hiking and culture, look no further than Mount Bukhansan — a stony peak just north of the city where Koreans have climbed and worshiped for centuries. Even today, a steady stream of hikers is constantly ascending and descending from the summit. But more than just a hike, you want culture, and so your path will deviate away from the main trail of hikers and will lead you off into the mystic stillness of the mountain. There, in the silence of the forest, with wind and bird both hushed in reverence, you will encounter the giant.

국녕대불 The Grand Buddha of Guknyeong

Called 국녕대불 (The Grand Buddha of Guknyeong), or the “Golden Buddha” by us tourists and expats, this impressive statue rises a mighty 24 meters (78 feet) in height and is part of the secluded Guknyeongsa Temple complex.

Unfortunately, despite being one of the largest seated Buddhas in all of East Asia and regardless of its close proximity to Seoul, the Golden Buddha isn’t found in any tourist books or internet lists of “To do” in Seoul or South Korea. If it wasn’t for a friend who had hiked there before I probably would never have heard of it. But this place is incredible, definitely worth seeing, and I think you should go!

Today, I’m going to give you the directions you need to get there.

Directions to the Golden Buddha

First, some logistical information:

• You will need to take the subway, followed by a 10 to 15-minute bus ride in order to get to the hike.
• Hike length is between 2 and 3 hours, depending on how long you take to walk the temple grounds and take pictures of the Buddha.
• Hike difficulty is moderate. The trail is paved for a majority of your way up the mountain, but the final stretch is a narrow mountain trail with steep ascents. No pavement here, so watch your footing on the rocks!
• Be aware that hiking trails in Korea can become incredibly crowded with people. While the small path to the Buddha will hopefully be empty, the main hiking trail on the way up the mountain will probably be very busy.

Step 1:

To start, ride line 3 of the Seoul subway to Gupabal Station and take Exit 2. As soon as you come out of the exit, turn around and walk to the nearest bus stop. Don’t cross any streets, the bus stop is just a short walk from the exit.

From the bus stop you have three options. Take bus #34, #704, or #8772 and ride it until “Bukhansanseong Entrance” bus stop. If you aren’t able to tell which stop that is, or if the bus doesn’t have English, just keep an eye on the other hikers and get off at the same stop they all do.

Step 2:

When you’re coming off the bus, turn left and walk past the bus stop sign. Continue

until the next intersection, then follow the sidewalk as it bends right, gradually going up hill. Keep walking straight, going the same way as all the other hikers. You’ll know you’re on the right track if you pass a tall “Bukhansan National Park” sign. Head’s up, there’s a crazy amount of hiking stores lining the opposite side of the street, so resist the temptation to run in and buy yourself a new backpack!

Step 3:

Eventually, the road will bend left, but that’s where the trailhead begins! You’ll walk around a vehicle barricade and continue up the mountain on a cobblestone path. You’ll also pass a few smaller trails which lead off into the mountain — ignore those and stick to the large trail.

After a short while, you’ll encounter your first bit of culture as you pass through Daeseomun (The Great West Gate). Daeseomun is one of a series of gates built in 1711 around Bukhansanseong Fortress, an ancient fortress that stood on the mountain as a place for the kings of Seoul to retreat to in times of emergency.

Step 4:

Continuing on up the mountain, you’ll pass a couple of bathroom stations and then cross a stone bridge. On the other side of the bridge the trail forks and you’ll see this sign:

Don’t worry, you’ll start seeing signs for the temple soon. In the meantime, follow the sign for Bukhansan Shelter and take the trail to the right.

Step 5:

After ascending a steep hill you’ll come to a bridge. Cross it and you’ll be standing next to a house with a blue “266” sign cemented into the corner. Don’t miss this! Your trail passes past the blue sign and along the back of the house. I know, it feels like you’re hiking through someone’s backyard, but trust me on this one — the golden giant is near!

Behind the house, you’ll find some rock stairs heading up into the mountain. Take these. The rest of your journey will be made on dirt and stone.

This part of the hike is where the mystic beauty of the mountain flows unchecked, so take your time, enjoy the view of the mountainside and the quiet rustling of leaves overhead. Eventually, you’ll cross another bridge and then pass a collection of delicately stacked rocks. Just keep following the signs marked “국녕사” and watch your footing — the journey is almost over.

Step 6:

I suddenly feel very alone on the mountain. At that moment, the conversation of my friends fades into the wind, the forest presses in about me, and I am standing alone before a giant. The sun gleams off the gold — a stark contrast to the deep blue sky and darkened forest.

Footsteps. A monk bows before the Buddha, then climbs the stairs to the temple and is gone.

I turn again to the giant. History, the ages — sites like these pump culture into your blood.

Intended as the guardian of Seoul, The Grand Buddha of Guknyeong sits near a spot where Korean folk legend says a mighty dragon ascended to heaven. Joining Buddha, the large cases surrounding him on three sides contain 10,000 smaller Buddhas.

To the right of the stairs, Guknyeongsa Temple complex rises up the side of the mountain, marking a site where Koreans have worshiped for over a thousand years. Fountains, prayer halls, and a massive bronze bell all join Buddha in overlooking the gorgeous mountainside.

You could easily spend a couple of hours just sitting at the temple and watching the mountain, but if you’re still in the mood for hiking, keep following the trail as it passes up through the temple complex. Just a few more minutes on that and you’ll arrive at the summit.

Unfortunately for us, we arrived just before sunset, so we had to make our visit a short one. Nonetheless, this is definitely a place we will return to! Probably within a couple of weeks so that we can experience the mountain while it’s wearing its autumn colors.

So there you have it! I hope this post has inspired you to visit the Giant of Mount Bukhansan for yourself and that you’re able to use these directions to get there. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment, and if I did inspire you to meet the giant, let me know! I’d love to hear about your own adventure on the mountain. Thank you for reading!